Hopper windows are the short, wide windows tucked near the top of most basement walls, and they’re one of the cheapest windows in the house to replace. This guide covers how they work, what sizes they come in, what replacement costs in 2026, and the one job a hopper usually can’t do.
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What Is a Hopper Window?
A hopper window is hinged at the bottom. Unlock it, and the top of the sash tilts inward into the room.
That’s it. No crank, no sliding track.
If that sounds familiar, it’s because a hopper is basically an awning window flipped upside down. An awning hinges at the top and pushes out. A hopper hinges at the bottom and tips in. That small difference is exactly why hoppers took over the basement: a window sitting at or below grade has no room to swing outward, especially when it’s boxed in by a window well.
Hoppers show up elsewhere too (above doors, in bathrooms, stacked under a picture window), but the basement is where most homeowners run into them.
What Is the Basement Window Thing Called?
The short, wide window near the top of a basement wall is called a hopper window. It gets its name from the way it tilts inward from the bottom, a bit like the open top of a grain hopper. Most homeowners never learn the term until they need a replacement, and then the parts around it add to the confusion. This question comes up a lot, and usually people mean one of three things:
- The window itself: almost always a hopper window, sometimes called a basement tilt window.
- The metal or plastic half-circle outside it: a window well, which holds back the soil so the window isn’t buried.
- The clear dome or grate over that well: a window well cover.
Older homes may also have a fixed, non-opening basement window or a glass block panel instead of a hopper. Those are different products with different replacement costs.
Are Hopper Windows Good for Basements?
For most basements, yes. They’re popular for a reason. A hopper brings in daylight and fresh air through an opening too short for almost any other window style, and it does it without swinging into the window well outside. They also cost less than most other operable windows, which matters when a basement has four or five of them to replace at once.
Where they win:
- They fit the space. Basement openings tend to be wide and short, and hoppers are built for that shape.
- They open without leaving the room. The sash tilts in, so nothing collides with the well wall or the dirt outside.
- They shed water. Because the top tilts inward and down, light rain mostly hits the glass and runs back outside instead of blowing straight in.
- They’re relatively secure. A small, low-profile sash with a single cam lock is hard to pry open from outside.
- They seal tightly when closed, which matters in a space that’s already prone to dampness and drafts.
Where they fall short:
The inward-tilting sash takes up room. Put a shelf, a washer, or a couch under it and you’ll feel it every time you open the window. Ventilation is modest, since the opening is only a partial tilt. Cleaning the outside of the glass from inside can be awkward too.
The biggest limitation, though, is size. More on that below.
Standard Basement Hopper Window Sizes
There’s no single standard, but most basement hoppers fall into a predictable range. The typical stock unit is roughly 31 to 32 inches wide, with heights running from about 13 to 23 inches, according to Lowe’s basement hopper window guide. Common stock sizes step up in small increments inside that height range.
| Dimension | Typical Range |
| Width | ~30 to 36 inches (32″ is the most common) |
| Height | ~13 to 24 inches |
| Larger finished-basement units | Up to ~48 inches tall, custom |
Here’s the catch with replacements: the existing opening decides the size, not the catalog. Many older basements have openings cut into poured concrete or block, and they don’t always match today’s stock sizes. When that happens, the choices are a custom-sized unit or buck framing to adapt the opening. Measure width and height in several spots, use the smallest number, and let the installer confirm before anything gets ordered.
Can a Hopper Window Be an Egress Window?
Usually not. And this is where a lot of basement finishing plans run into trouble.
If a basement room is used for sleeping, the International Residential Code requires an emergency escape opening. Under IRC Section R310, that opening needs:
- At least 5.7 square feet of net clear opening (5.0 square feet when the sill is at or below grade)
- At least 24 inches of clear height
- At least 20 inches of clear width
- A sill no higher than 44 inches above the floor
A 32-by-20-inch hopper doesn’t come close. Its clear opening is a fraction of that once the tilted sash is in the way, and it usually sits high on the wall. Your local building department has the final say on which code edition applies.
So if the plan is a basement bedroom, a hopper swap won’t make it legal. That job means cutting a larger opening, installing a casement or sliding egress window, and adding a well sized to match. It’s a different project with a very different price tag.
How Much Does It Cost to Install a Basement Hopper Window?
For a straight swap into an existing opening, the numbers are pretty reasonable. Most of the price comes down to three things: the window unit, the labor, and whatever the installer finds once the old frame comes out. A clean opening keeps the job small. A rusted steel frame or rotted framing is what turns a quick swap into a bigger bill.
Homewyse puts basic basement window installation at roughly $448 to $673 per window as of May 2026. That covers labor for a standard install, shims, flashing, sealant, and cleanup. It doesn’t include the window unit, framing repairs, permits, or contractor overhead.
A rough 2026 breakdown:
| Project | Typical Cost |
| Standard vinyl hopper unit (window only) | ~$100 to $300 |
| Like-for-like replacement, installed | ~$450 to $900 per window |
| Custom-sized or premium-frame unit, installed | Higher; quote-dependent |
| Converting the opening to an egress window | ~$3,000 to $7,000+ |
Costs climb fast in a few specific situations:
- Old steel frames set in concrete. Many mid-century basements have rusted steel frames cast right into the foundation. Removing one often means cutting it out with an angle grinder, which adds labor.
- Rotted wood bucks. If the wood framing around the opening has absorbed years of moisture, it has to be replaced before a new window goes in.
- Water problems. A window well that floods will ruin a new window the same way it ruined the old one. Fixing the drainage comes first.
Egress conversion costs land in a different tier entirely, driven by concrete cutting, excavation, a new lintel, the well, and permits. Figures here reflect published 2026 averages and vary by region and site conditions.
Vinyl Is the Default, and for Good Reason
Most replacement basement hopper windows are vinyl. It doesn’t rust like steel. It doesn’t rot like wood. And it tolerates the constant humidity of a below-grade wall better than either.
Fiberglass and wood-clad hoppers exist, and they make sense in a finished basement where the window is part of the room’s look. For an unfinished laundry or utility space, vinyl with dual-pane, Low-E glass is plenty. It also cuts down on the cold-glass condensation that basement windows are known for. Koalaty’s guide to energy-efficient windows breaks down the glass options in more detail.
Signs It’s Time to Replace a Basement Hopper
Not every drafty basement window needs replacing. These usually mean it does:
- Rust or rot on the frame that you can push a screwdriver into
- A sash that won’t latch, or a latch that’s rusted solid
- Fogging between the panes on a dual-pane unit
- Water staining on the wall or sill below the window
- Visible daylight or airflow around the frame when it’s closed
- Single-pane glass or old steel frames that sweat all winter
Water getting in is the one to act on fast. It might be the window, or it might be the well, the grading, or a gutter dumping onto that corner of the house. Koalaty’s breakdown of leaking windows during heavy rain helps sort out which. For a broader checklist, see the signs it’s time for a window replacement.
DIY or Hire a Pro?
A same-size vinyl hopper going into a clean wood-framed opening is a manageable DIY job for someone comfortable with a level, shims, and sealant.
It stops being simple fast. Cutting out a steel frame, rebuilding a rotted buck, sealing against concrete, or dealing with a well that already holds water are all jobs where a mistake shows up months later as a wet basement. And anything touching egress sizing should involve both a pro and a permit.
Get a Fair & Honest Quote
If your basement windows are rusted, fogged, or letting water in, Koalaty’s licensed, insured, and vetted window pros can inspect the opening, confirm the right size, and tell you whether it’s a straight hopper swap or a bigger fix. No pressure, no padded estimate.
Get a Fair & Honest Quote on basement hopper window replacement.
FAQ About Hopper Window
Are hopper windows good for basements?
Yes, for most basements. They fit the short, wide openings basements usually have, tilt inward so they don’t hit the window well, and seal tightly. The main drawback is that they’re typically too small to count as an egress window.
How much does it cost to install a basement hopper window?
A like-for-like replacement typically runs about $450 to $900 per window installed in 2026. Removing old steel frames, repairing rotted framing, or ordering a custom size pushes it higher. Converting the opening to an egress window is a separate project, often $3,000 to $7,000 or more.
What is the basement window thing called?
The window itself is usually a hopper window. The enclosure outside that holds back the soil is a window well, and the dome or grate over it is a window well cover.
What are the typical dimensions of basement hopper windows?
Most are about 30 to 36 inches wide (32 inches is most common) and roughly 13 to 24 inches tall. Replacement sizing always follows the existing opening, so measure before ordering.
What’s the difference between a hopper and an awning window?
A hopper is hinged at the bottom and tilts inward. An awning is hinged at the top and swings outward. Same idea, opposite direction.